In 2015, the Indian government’s call for a ban on cattle slaughter and transport had a significant impact on various sectors, affecting more than just dietary habits. The Dalit community, particularly leather workers from the Chamar caste, faced the harshest impact. Thousands lost their livelihoods as their traditional work revolved around leather-making, cobbling, tanning, and skinning animals.
The Chamar community, for generations, relied on leather work to support their families. The ban effectively ended the work they had depended on for so long, forcing many to lose their only means of earning. With no alternative source of employment provided and denied agency, these people faced an uncertain future. Moreover, the stigma surrounding their profession also caused marginalisation, viewed by society as “impure” and “low-status.”
Recognising the need for change, artist-activist Sudheer Rajbhar began searching for alternatives to leather that could help artisans resume their work. In 2017, Rajbhar founded Chamar Studio, a brand that gave a fresh start to ostracised leather workers from the Dalit community. The Dharavi-based bag brand creates handcrafted bags and accessories from cotton and recycled rubber sourced from waste, providing opportunities to marginalised communities while promoting eco-friendly practices.
The inspiring story of Chamar studio
Chamar Studio is a sustainable brand founded by Sudheer Rajbhar, a visual artist turned designer from Mumbai. Named after the Dalit community, known for their leather-making skills, the studio works with individuals from various marginalised professions, including street-side cobblers, sweepers, boot-polish wallas, and leather craftsmen.
Rajbhar, from the Bhar community in Jaunpur, Uttar Pradesh, noted that terms like Bhar and Chamar are often used as slurs. He was curious to see how the public would react to a word like ‘Chamar’ in an art space. In a social experiment, he created a cotton bag with the word “Chamar” printed on it in different languages. Not to mention, the art sector in India is an elitist system, leaving the voices of many talented, underrepresented artists unheard. Hence, a need for change led him to create a brand that would offer the Dalit community a chance to learn, earn, and break away from stigma.
The studio employs leather workers from the Chamar community to create handmade bags such as messenger bags, cross-body slings, satchels, backpacks, and other accessories. These products use materials like cotton and rubber repurposed from old tyres and tubes. Chamar Studio operates from the slums of Dharavi, Mumbai, where the workers live and work.
From caste discrimination to craftsmanship pride
In India, the term ‘Chamar’ is a derogatory label used for Dalit communities traditionally involved in leather work and tanneries. Chamar India, or Chamar Studio as it is also known, seeks to transform the ethnic slur into a symbol of pride and empowerment. By choosing this name, the brand challenges the profoundly entrenched casteist views that have oppressed Dalits for generations.
“In the Indian caste system, ‘chamar’ is an ethnic slur used to describe this ostracised community. At Chamar Studio, we use it with pride,” says Mr Sudheer Rajbhar. The idea behind this, he explains, was to shift the traditional social perception of Dalits, who are often called ‘untouchables.’ Instead of being looked down upon, the goal was to show that their skills and craftsmanship deserve respect and recognition.
“By providing economic support, the studio aims to not only offer financial aid but also give these artisans visibility and social standing,” he adds.
The studio’s mission is not only to create high-quality, sustainable fashion products but also to give Dalit artisans a platform to showcase their skills. Organisations and societal barriers have often kept these artisans away from mainstream opportunities. Unlike many other brands that have people criticise for exploiting marginalised workers, Chamar Studio has made empowerment its core value. The brand ensures that the artisans involved in the production get the dignity and respect they deserve. It helps break down the cycles of exploitation.
Sustainability, activism, and empowerment in every piece
In 2024, Rihanna made headlines when she sat on a chair designed by Chamar Studio at Design Miami. The chair called the Flap Chair, is valued at ₹10 lakhs and is made from recycled rubber. Chamar Studio’s designs also focus on activism, raising awareness about critical social issues.
In 2019, the brand created a new collection of bags in collaboration with cobblers who work on suburban railway platforms in India. In 2021, Chamar Studio launched Mandee Revolt, a collection dedicated to the farmers’ protests. Then, in 2022, the Bayadere collection honoured Devadasis. It is a community of women who devoted their lives to temple service and have long faced marginalisation from society.
The Chamar Studio: A fairer pay system, A greener future
What sets Chamar Studio apart is also its commitment to sustainability. The brand uses recycled rubber made from industry leftovers and discarded rubber products. This material closely resembles leather in texture, offering a sustainable alternative without compromising on quality. The studio manufactures affordable designer products which are cruelty-free, waterproof, and gender-neutral.
Chamar Studio partnered with Mohua Chinappa to launch the Chamar Foundation in Koramangala, Bangalore. The foundation focuses on educating leather workers from across India. The idea is to teach them about alternative materials and how to create sustainable products.
Many designer brands set sky-high prices for their products. Still, the artisans who craft these items are left struggling to make ends meet. They often live paycheck to paycheck, earning only daily wages for their hard work. At Chamar Studio, the focus is on creating a fairer system where profits are split equally between the artisans and the promoters. Nearly 50% of the income goes to the craftsmen through the Chamar Foundation. It ensures that the artisans benefit directly from their work.
The final thoughts
Chamar Studio is not only addressing social inequality. It also confronts the environmental impact of fashion. Sudheer Rajbhar’s vision challenges the deeply rooted caste-based hierarchies that have long oppressed the Dalit community. Today, the brand serves as a community-inclusive platform, offering agency, dignity, and a future that was once these artisans did not get. Additionally, Chamar Studio remains committed to sustainability and eco-friendliness, something every company should prioritise, given the pressing environmental challenges we face.
At ChangeinContent, we believe in telling inclusive stories like these. These are the stories of companies that don’t just sell products but sell a message. One of social responsibility, environmental consciousness, and genuine empowerment.
Disclaimer: The views expressed in this article are based on the writer’s insights, supported by data and resources available both online and offline, as applicable. Changeincontent.com is committed to promoting inclusivity across all forms of content. We broadly define inclusivity as media, policies, law, and history—encompassing all elements that influence the lives of women and gender-queer individuals. Our goal is to promote understanding and advocate for comprehensive inclusivity.
